PUNTA COCUTTOS, SARDINIA

GOLA DI GORROPU

EL VIAJE DE LOS LOCOS

Take a Daniel. And another Daniel. Put them together and you get a madman’s journey (“El Viaje de los locos”). Since 1999 and the Hotel Supramonte route, Gorropu has become a sanctuary of long extreme routes in Europe. The beauty of the place is part of the puzzle: a tight gorge, large blue overhangs full of pillars… in the middle of the Mediterranean.
They finished their route in five days. The first pitch, an 8b, is 55 m long.
The third, an 8b+, is the crux of the route: a wall of flat top holds followed by a small buttress with a section that can be bouldered. Ground up first ascent for the last two pitches classed 8a, with a drill in the harness… After two days of rest, the two companions scale their route.
A tip: this is stiff party, hide your cliffs and your secret routes in case the Daniels come that way…

KEY INFORMATION

Departure: Nuoro.
Difficulty: from 7b to 8b+.
Height: 270 metres and 7 pitches.
Time of year: spring and autumn.
Time: 8 hours at the first sequence…
Equipment: 75 bolts in place. Take along 14 quickdraws.
First climbed by:
Daniel Du Lac and Dani Andrada, in October 2002.
Map: Michelin map, 1/350,000.

GET THE WHOLE STORY FROM:
See the topo from Maurizio Oviglia and Pietra di Luna on spots in Sardinia, published by FABULA
(2002 version in English).
And also www.sardiniaclimb.com

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Copyright : photos Sam Bié - texte Jocelyn Chavy